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Restaurant of the month October 2016

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Restaurant Alois impressions and views
Restaurant Alois impressions and views
Restaurant Alois impressions and views
Restaurant Alois impressions and views
Restaurant Alois impressions and views

To restaurant details

Diethard Urbansky

Since over 300 years, the Dallmayr is existing, a flagship of delicacy, a land of milk and honey where the sausages and ham are hanging on the wall, the fruits groing in the mouth, crawfishes are swimming in the standpipe, preppy salesgirls balance the world famous coffee on the pair of scales.

At last Munich, finally a laudation outside the front-door. It's like with museums in the own town, they don't run away. Since over 300 years, the Dallmayr is existing, a flagship of delicacy, a land of milk and honey where the sausages and ham are hanging on the wall, the fruits groing in the mouth, crawfishes are swimming in the standpipe, preppy salesgirls balance the world famous coffee on the pair of scales. Day for day thousands are strolling through the beautiful rooms. An overall concept for satisfiable wishes.

We made it even more exclusive. We dine in the restaurant. Fine and very enjoyable.

Since 10 years the restaurant Dallmayr is existing on the first floor, 10 years which flew by in flight under the direction of Diethard Urbansky (born 1958 in Olsberg, Germany). Since he startet in Brilon, he ran through the outstanding stations, which are available in it's sector for applied textbook. This pleasantly restrained chef jumping splits among his young highly motivated team under sous-chef Christopf Kunz. Two Michelin stars were cooked in a short time. Nobody is resting on it, they are jumping next and show their skills. To this anniversary, Urbansky's 10 from 10 will be served, each year is standing for one course. This special menue is only available in the period from 11.10. to 23.12.2016.

A culinary retrospect from the past years, lightly relaunched, should be offered, Urbansky's 10 from 10: From the iced essence of the oxtail, over the chin of a pork, eel in eel, red mullet with crispy scales (protein-containing like all the animal products like skin, cord and gristle), heart and brie of the veal, back of the venison and last but not least the course of snails is gliding to the wonderful dessert.

Our evening in the elegant restaurant Dallmayr – the wood paneled walls stringed with Mongolian horsehair, selected accessory, Nymphenburger porcelain vases – in the heart of the beautiful city, not far from the towers of the Frauenkirche (Church of the lady), is starting hearty, Barbara Englbrecht (restaurant manager) and her team are riding in the service of the high school, friendliness as motto of the life, the flying turning in appearence and speech, not stressed and easy.

As pretty dramaturgical effect a sealed despatch: our menu, which ingratiate oneself with a small amouse bouche from watermelon and duck, followed by Skyr (an aromatic Icelandic yoghurt) and the wild cloudberry in mead, so delicate, so brownish white, so delicious. And that we can understand the competitive exhibition of the chef's, they are greet us vegan-green with excellent tofu, cucumber, ginger, green apple. The classic modernity from the „flavour-whisperer“ Urbansky transforms itself some initial reluctance as acid in living treat. Worries are outsourced shortly. 

We look forward to the entire canon.

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Fotos © Dallmayr

Sommelier Julien Morlat accompanied us wine moderately, he points unerringly my diffuse wishes. Fom the Champagner Dallmayr Rosé over the Cour-Cheverny Plénitude from the Loire-valley to the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr from Molitor - perfect. The grade unit of the Sonnenuhr has to be measured in angels-tears. How do the wineries of Molitor only a Riesling completely without acid expand ... My motorized companion is happy with its individually-mixed drinks.

Without a break, it continue with the chin of the pork from the green egg, beads from the banana and golden popped rice. The breeze of the sweetness in addition to the light crispy unfamilar part of the pig is clever. A contrast after the substantial flesh are Breton scallops with olive oil gnocchi. A delicious summer reminiscence.

Less is more, nothing is only served for the decoration, all for the taste, not grandstanding, so represents Urbansky his craft and ennobles it on this basis to undisguised artwork. Like the felicitous skate course with powerade, lettuce and basil seed. And my brie of the veal in tasty fowl jus, walnut and elder, that i got as a surprising bite to the main course (Nebraska-beef) of my companion. Here the starred chef is „guest-whisperer“, for he must have guessed my passion.

A incredibly delicate transit to the dessert commits the kitchen with their potatoes. Granted enriched with bacon and vanilla. But how and in how many fiddly steps this wonderfully unique pre-dessert, which runs in the mouth to a terrific flashmob, is produced, although the single products alone are good, that should remain the secret of Urbansky and his crew. Or by Pastry Chef Eugen Stichling, who bases its desserts after the adequate maxim of Urbansky: bringing the variety of products and their structures to the highlight of the taste. The festive height from the treat of the menu. Only encountered in ambitious kitchens. For me, a separate chapter in the haute cuisine.

With a grateful feeling of a wonderful evening we leave the Dallmayr. 

My open despatch confesses: the Dallmayr is great. Of great style. With much flair for the extraordinary. 

And the gentle sparkle of a eventually looming third star.

Author: Margret Buchner

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