Horvàth, Berlin

"Sebastian Frank interprets simple, rather rustic flavours of traditional Austrian cuisine in his own way. He doesn't stray too far from them, but just shifts the intensities and consistencies a little, achieving amazing effects that lead to filigree and/or more flavour. His signature is so distinctive and unmistakable. On this visit, compared to the previous ones, the balance of the dishes and the menu as a whole improved noticeably for me. More refinement has been introduced without pushing back the rustic aspects. The presentation of the dishes has also become more visually appealing. That's a very strong two stars. - For me, Horvath is still one of the most independent kitchens in Germany. In terms of distinctiveness, it stands out among the two-star restaurants and is really only comparable with the three-star restaurants." (Published in April 2024)

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