“The restaurant is extreme in its obvious determination to achieve three stars. The interior has been freshly renovated (following a fire in the cellar) and is absolutely spectacular – from the inside, it is probably the most beautiful restaurant in Europe, with all the tables arranged in seating areas around the open kitchen. Head chef Richard van Oostenbrugge tells us openly that his other restaurants are merely there to make money; the 212 is his labour of love, with which he aims to secure three stars. And everything here is geared towards that: tableside action where a pot of caviar is brought to the table to be served onto the plate with a hearty spoonful. Bonito flakes are freshly shaved onto the plate from a fish dried in-house, much like truffles. And during our visit, luxury ingredients such as white Alba truffles, blue lobster, Norway lobster and Imperial caviar are naturally on the menu, and the restaurant certainly doesn’t skimp on them. Culinary-wise, Restaurant 212 may push the boundaries, but somehow, even this over-the-top approach is, in my view, worth the journey. I’d give it 2.5 stars for the food this evening – if the head chef can rein himself in just a little, I consider 3 stars to be very realistic." (Published in May 2024)

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