212, Amsterdam

"The restaurant is extreme in its obvious endeavour to achieve three stars. The interior is newly renovated (after a fire in the cellar) and absolutely spectacular - probably the most beautiful restaurant in Europe from the inside, where all the tables are arranged in seating areas around the open kitchen. Head chef Richard van Oostenbrugge tells us openly that his other restaurants are only there to make money and that 212 is his pet project with which he wants to win three stars. And that's what everything here is geared towards: Tableside action in which a pot of caviar is brought to the table so that the caviar can be plated up on the plate with a hearty spoon. Bonito flakes are freshly sliced from a self-dried fish on the plate like truffles. And during our visit, luxury products such as white alba truffles, blue lobster, Norway lobster and imperial caviar are naturally on the menu, and they are not skimped on here either. Restaurant 212 may push the boundaries in culinary terms, but somehow even this forced approach is worth the journey for me. In culinary terms, I see 2.5 stars this evening - if the chef can restrain himself minimally, I see 3 stars as very realistic." (Published in May 2024)

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