Auernhofen: Winzerhof Stahl

The chef is self-taught, the farm is hidden away in a village of 150 people in Middle Franconia  - and yet a Michelin star has just risen above the restaurant at Winzerhof Stahl. A sensation? For Christian Stahl (45) and countless fans: yes. But those who have been following the rise of the ambitious chef, winemaker and viticultural engineer for some time are not surprised. After all, the restaurant has been honoured with two toques from Gault Millau since 2020 and was recently awarded 3.5 F by gourmet magazine Der Feinschmecker. There are also dozens of awards for the wines that Christian Stahl grows on sun-drenched steep slopes - and with which he supplies Michelin-starred restaurants and wine merchants throughout Germany.

The Michelin Guide 2024 praises: "Wine or food? The restaurant at Winzerhof Stahl focuses on both, in the form of a modern 9-course surprise menu with a perfectly matched accompaniment of nine wines from the estate." The review also praises the personal and pleasantly intimate atmosphere in the small dining room:  "This is not least thanks to owner Christian Stahl, who is personally involved with the guests - you can literally feel his passion for cooking and wine! The patron and his experienced kitchen team, which he manages together with Mirko Schweiger, serve the food themselves."

Wine - more than just an accompaniment

"Behind our fine dining concept is the desire to create a menu to match our wines," explains Christian Stahl, who develops all dishes together with Mirko Schweiger (51), also head chef at the restaurant, as mentioned in the Michelin Guide. "The flavours of the wines guide us in the recipe of each individual dish. My aim is for the congenial interplay between the two players to culminate in a unique flavour experience."</p

<p>Christian Stahl and his team grow many of the herbs and vegetables for his restaurant in their own garden. He grows the tomatoes from old Romanian mountain village seeds and the lime leaves come from his own citrus trees. The cuisine is classically French with a focus on the quality of the products. The result: fine dining with seven to ten finely coordinated courses inspired by the estate's own wines. For example, the award-winning Müller-Thurgau combines perfectly with the spiced bulgur marinated in bergamot, Schmalzmüller cheese curd and creamy, fresh Ajoblanco. And the aromatic structure of the Merlot Cabernet Franc "Kalksteige" with its fine cherry note harmonises with the ethereal spruce panko, black salsify and chestnut alongside the venison. Each course not only plays masterfully with flavours, textures and temperatures, but also unfolds in an exquisite plate.

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<h3>Top-class cuisine, very familiar

The kitchen and restaurant team is small and perfectly coordinated. There are never more than three people working in the kitchen, including Christian Stahl and Mirko Schweiger. Maria Bätz and Oliver Bönsch manage the service. Simone Stahl takes care of guest and personnel management and finances.

The rooms of the restaurant, which is located in the listed main building of the Winzerhof, are just as intimate as the kitchen. When the weather is fine, guests dine on the small terrace - just a few metres from the cooker. The chef himself often rushes to the table, serves the next course and exchanges a few words with his guests. "This gives me a very good feel for what goes down well," he says.