Saphir, An der Wasserburg, Wolfsburg, Germany

A short stay in the comfortable wellness– and businesshotel „An der Wasserburg“ was topped with the evening at the gourmet restaurant „Saphir“, directed by André Münch (Chef de Cuisine) and his highly ambitious team.

A restaurant report is – as well as the rating – a subjective case. The well respected reviewer or tester judges out next objective criteria also according to his instinct. Full of emotions. Thus, may it also concede the writer with the current commendation. A short stay in the comfortable wellness– and businesshotel „An der Wasserburg“, opened 1991, was toppeed with the evening at the gourmetrestaurant „Saphir“, directed by André Münch (Chef de Cuisine) and his highly ambitious team. Without this solid crew, it would not work.

„A good place to stop your journey, indicating a very good restaurant in its category, offering cuisine prepared to a consistently high standard.“, which is the definition of a star of the Guide Michelin. Münch brought it with him from the Gasthaus Stolpe and it should be awarded again. The writer implies secretly the second star to it: „A restaurant worth a detour, indicating excellent cuisine and skillfully and carefully crafted dishes of outstanding quality.“ And yes, the friendly André Münch, born 1977 in Castrop Rauxel, is really worth a detour.

The „Saphir“, housed in the old vault of the castles potato cellar, was renovated in proper style – 5 tables, window to the kitchen, neutral coloured wallpaper, Foscarini lamps – which is adjusted, to bring the coulinary touches of the „Saphir“ sparkle. The ceremony starts with a pleasant to taste Cremant Rosè from Winterling / Pfalz. The titling of the menue is short and pragmatic, lush and narrative illustrating the haptic details. We begin with the „Steinzeit (Stone Age)“: appetizingly faned out in sticked bread, handmade crispbread, a fluffy potatobread and a housemade Krupuk (crackers). Delicious.

This opener has extra to appreciate by someone who otherwise have do without the saturating Pré. Give us our daily breat from Münch and Co. The writer couldn't get enough of the proceeding of the small tarte flambee, antpasti with gazpacho made of mediterranian vegetables, which tastes like carrots but without any of these.The full carrot in contrast, 3 dishes later, brought the Karottenerleuchtung (carrot enlightment): Carrots made in different shapes and textures, cooked sous vide, mash with balsamico oil, grandmas mottled pear. What you can do from this root at all! Stories taled by Münch with his creations.

His parsed bouillabaisse made from Carabinero, langoustines, wild-cought shrimps. One day production time. Cooking the carcasses, making gel of fruity lemon liqueur, mango and so on...Succinct is called the court: Eintopf (stew). The Bauernfrühstück (farmer's breakfast) for a differentiated palate, also being disassembled into his causal detail, the egg as growing soft Onsen egg, fried potatoes as a foam. And look forward to his interpretation of Himmel und Hölle (heaven and hell), optically as ingenious as flavorful.

The category „innovative gourmet kitchen“ is only a formal drawer, which show helpless, that all is possible, only the product show the limit. Come in and find out, say the passionate chef, who prefers to do everything himself.On the way he is as hunter and angler. That he brings animals on the dish, is provided for him in the plan of creation. With respect he encounters them. It's kitchen includes all good products, with a faible for vegetables.

As the writer begins to weaken during the menue, Christoph Neumann (manager of the restaurant) brings a Bialetti-jug, and hey presto a stimulant flows into the espresso cup. Right in the middle a coffe? But what a! Delicious and apart: roasted root vegetables, for 24 hours at 70 degress subduded. A spicy brew. 

The restaurant manager recommends the unsteady writer exactly the right wine: Saarburger Rausch from Geltz-Ziliken. Very aromatic on the tongue. This the writer choose, also as their last, quite idiosyncratic main course. A merry promise redeemed – serves a curry-sausage. With all the frills, fries from potatoes and sweet potatoes, red-white in a glass. So to speak, the gastric-reminder to the normal mortal culinary, were it not for the exceptional quality of the product.

A venison-sausage from Herleshausen. It rests in a curry sauce as it should be, which stimulates the nerves of the stomach, you feel not stuffed, mischievous „aufgemüncht“ in the alchemists kitchen. Thanks you, Mondamin. Unconditionally, the writer capitulate for the adequate replacment for the American BBQ with smoke and dramatic secondary performers. Münchs ambitious kitchen can do everything, dominate the things, makes them look effortless and easy. This must be joy in making the creations. 

Author: Margret Buchner