Marcon, Saint-Bonnet-le-Froid

“The next morning, on the journey back to Lyon, we discussed as a group whether this really was a three-star experience. In my view, there are certainly arguments both for and against it. It’s rare to find such excellent use of vegetables and herbs in what is essentially classic cuisine. The only restaurant that springs to mind as a comparable one is L’Arpège, and I would rate Marcon as more elaborate and refined. On the other hand, the dishes aren’t overly complex. Their appeal lies not in technical or flavour-based tinkering, but in the effortless combination of superb-quality fish and meat with perfectly ripened and prepared herbs and vegetables – all in superb balance. With one of the savoury dishes, I had the impression that there should have been a little more or less of something on the plate. The herbs and vegetables were always on an equal footing with the fish or meat, creating perfect harmony. Quality here also encompasses how the ingredients provided by nature and the region’s resources are utilised. During a brief visit to the kitchen, Jaques Marcon tells us that he adapts and fine-tunes his dishes every few days to suit the vegetables and herbs available. This is achieved to the highest standard, but is certainly not as readily apparent as in a dish that can be prepared to a precise recipe, because the same quality of produce is available over a long period. I’d sum it up like this: Marcon is well worth a visit if you’re starting from Lyon, for example, which is about an hour and a half’s drive away. Our table of guests enjoyed a very pleasant, entertaining and lovely evening overall, thanks not only to the food itself, but also to the relaxed atmosphere following a wonderful day – from the excellent breakfast through our shared hiking experience right up to the warm hospitality of the Marcon.” (Published in May 2026)

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