Noma is back in Copenhagen

COPENHAGEN. Noma has reopened in its home city. This marks the start of a new chapter for the world-class restaurant. Founder René Redzepi had already stepped back from day-to-day operations in the spring and now holds the role of creative director. This followed the emergence of allegations of humiliation and abuse made by more than 30 former staff members whilst the restaurant was staging a pop-up in Los Angeles. According to the allegations, Redzepi is said to have subjected staff to physical and psychological abuse and threatened them between 2009 and 2017.

At the new Noma, day-to-day management will be led by CEO Annika de Las Heras and the culinary duo of Mette Brink Søberg and Pablo Soto. “René will not play a role in day-to-day operations, but we will continue to be in regular contact with him, as we are set to put his visions for the future into practice,” Mette Brink Søberg told the Danish news agency Ritzau. It was now important to recruit managers with the right mindset.

The restaurant’s previous culinary concept, based on the three major seasons, is also undergoing a fundamental change: from now on, there will be monthly changes. In an official announcement, Noma describes the new rhythm as follows: “Every month brings its own unique seasonal rhythm, characterised by subtle changes in ingredients, weather and landscape. As guests, you’ll become part of our creative process in real time – you’ll taste as we explore, and discover new things as we experiment. Consequently, some dishes will only be on the menu for a short time, whilst others will evolve over the course of the season – ensuring that no two visits are ever the same.” According to the restaurant, the first few months of this new era will initially focus on “sun-kissed berries, fragrant blossoms, succulent vegetables and sweet seafood in August”, before the menus gradually transition, by October, to the “deep flavours of wild mushrooms, stone fruit, game and red shellfish’ by October.