Eskemm, Quimper

“It is understandable that a kitchen run by just one person would rely on a relatively large number of components that are easy to prepare, such as creams and purées, although this does make the menu feel a little too repetitive. Nevertheless, what Thibault Monnerie produces here single-handedly is truly worthy of praise. Compared to the menu the previous evening at ‘Éclosion’ – which, like ‘Eskemm’, has been awarded 13 points in Gault Millau – the plates here are significantly more uncluttered and pleasantly pared-back. Instead of a grand showcase of diverse textures, the dishes here are, to my taste, more clearly conceived, which enhances the enjoyment of even a multi-course meal. Camille Favain manages to ensure there are no waiting times, even when the restaurant is almost fully booked. She keeps a charming eye on all the tables, and as Quimper is a typical tourist town, you can get by just fine here – as indeed in all the other restaurants we visited – with English, should your remaining knowledge of French prove a bit rusty.” (Published in January 2026)

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