In the Restaurant-Ranglisten.de podcast, the managing director of Cœur d’Artichaut in Münster talks about responsibility, crisis management and the future of fine dining

Elisabeth Morel has been running the restaurant Cœur d’Artichaut in Münster alongside her husband Frédéric since 2019; it has since been awarded two Michelin stars. On the fringes of the JRE’s annual meeting in Cologne, she was a guest on the Restaurant-Ranglisten.de podcast. The conversation focuses less on the presentation on the plate and more on what holds top-tier gastronomy together behind the scenes: organisation, responsibility, teamwork – and the balancing act between family and business. Her role often receives little attention in the spotlight of haute cuisine. Yet she regards her task as essential: “The backbone of the backbone,” she says self-deprecatingly of the management role. It doesn’t sound glamorous, she admits, but it is all the more necessary for that.

Her career path originally took her through the hotel industry. With a background in hotel management, she was involved in the opening, takeover and restructuring of hotels, as well as in quality management. Experience that she now applies directly in her own restaurant: structuring processes, keeping an eye on the figures, preparing decisions – all of this is a prerequisite for creativity in the kitchen to be possible at all.

A daily routine between nursery and key figures

The Morel family’s daily routine is clearly organised. In the mornings, both parents take their children to nursery together, after which the day is divided between the kitchen and the office. Whilst Frédéric Morel is responsible for the culinary side of things, Elisabeth Morel handles almost all the behind-the-scenes tasks that guests never see: emails, bookkeeping, liaising with the tax office, staff management, marketing and public relations. “I don’t cook, but apart from that I do everything,” she sums up her role matter-of-factly – adding that, if necessary, she’ll even be found at the sink herself.

Balancing family life with fine dining remains a challenge. Two small children cannot be left home alone in the evenings. This requires flexible arrangements, mutual support and clear agreements – not only within the family, but also within the team.

A permanent crisis as the new normal

No sooner had the restaurant opened in 2019 than the next series of trials followed: the pandemic, lockdowns, inflation, rising costs and a palpable shift in society. Morel describes the past few years as constant crisis management. By then, she says, Covid was no longer the biggest challenge.

She has noticed changes in guests’ booking behaviour particularly clearly. Planning has become more difficult, and last-minute decisions are on the rise. Cœur d’Artichaut is responding with clear, transparent models. The menu changes monthly, as does the price – calculated based on the cost of ingredients at the time. “Very simple, very fair,” is how Morel describes this approach. In addition, a cancellation fee has been introduced to better cushion the impact of no-shows.

The team as our greatest asset

Despite economic constraints, people remain at the heart of Morell’s approach. She emphasises repeatedly that the team is “our greatest asset”. Decisions are not made over people’s heads, but discussed collectively. This was the case with the reintroduction of a four-course menu, which allows for greater flexibility – for both guests and the business.

The restaurant sees itself as an extended family. The children, too, grow up in an environment where work, life and shared responsibility are closely intertwined. “At the end of the day, we stand behind this business as a family,” says Morell – a commitment that goes far beyond business metrics.

Fine dining in transition

When it comes to the industry, Elisabeth Morell takes a nuanced and critical view. She observes the current debates about prices, luxury and supposed aloofness with scepticism. High menu prices are not an end in themselves, she says, but the result of real costs. You don’t get rich from them: “There’s still no Ferrari parked outside my door – even if my menu costs 200 or 250 euros.”

Instead of fuelling simplistic debates, she advocates for greater collegiality and openness within the restaurant industry. Cooperation, the exchange of experiences and a spirit of innovation are more sustainable than a dog-eat-dog mentality. Fine dining must continue to evolve without losing its values – quality, craftsmanship and the guest experience remain at the heart of it all, regardless of the menu format or atmosphere.

Appreciation for those in the background

By the end of the conversation, it becomes clear what drives Elisabeth Morell: the desire for recognition for work that often remains unseen. “I want to be valued for my work. That’s what it comes down to,” she says. Management in the world of fine dining means responsibility, resilience and constant reflection – but also the chance to shape a business for the long term.

Nevertheless, she looks to the future with optimism. She believes that those who do not shy away from a challenge, respond with humour and remain open to new approaches can navigate turbulent times well. For her personally, one thing is clear: she wouldn’t want to do anything else.