Restaurant review
Buoy, Hamburg
“The culinary formula behind Marvin Böhm’s first menu goes something like this: Aqua minus the influences from Greece, the Middle East or Japan, plus a greater focus on northern Germany, equals a promising debut menu. In other words, the roots of Elverfeld’s cuisine are more than obvious. Much of it reminds me of the period from around 2018 until the onset of the pandemic in Wolfsburg. Naturally, one can assume that Marvin Böhm will develop his own signature style over time. But since Aqua no longer exists, there’s certainly nothing wrong with continuing to draw from this repertoire – I, for one, would appreciate it and wouldn’t see it as a shortcoming at all. In any case, what I liked about the menu was exactly what I always appreciated at Aqua: the subtlety and precision of the balance, which gives the seemingly simple dishes that special touch. In any case, I’m delighted to have a restaurant in Hamburg that perfectly matches my taste – on the one hand new, yet somehow already familiar to me. Given the quality on display, Buoy is sure to soon become a fixture on Hamburg’s fine-dining scene.” (Published in April 2026)
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Restaurant review
Bareiss, Baiersbronn
"The Bareiss restaurant is no longer an old-fashioned gourmet temple, but a top-class restaurant that has embraced the spirit of the times"