In the latest episode of the Restaurant-Ranglisten.de podcast, Hannes Buchner speaks with Dominik Paul, head chef at the two-Michelin-starred restaurant Opus V in Mannheim. The conversation paints a portrait of a chef who isn’t looking to make a grand entrance, but who consistently prioritises quality, teamwork and cost-effectiveness.

Dominik Paul’s journey into the kitchen began early and with a down-to-earth approach. Even as a teenager, he was helping out in the catering industry, initially ‘washing up in the kitchen’, before he was allowed to learn the ropes of hot and cold cuisine relatively quickly. His decision to become a chef was a pragmatic one: ‘I’ve always wanted to work with food and drink.’ Following a traditional apprenticeship, his path gradually led him into fine dining, including a stint at Restaurant Dollenberg, where he first gained intensive exposure to Michelin-starred cuisine. Paul has been working at Opus V since 2013, initially as demi chef de partie and now as head chef.

Paul takes a level-headed view of the fact that he has been in charge of the kitchen since 2020 and has consistently held two Michelin stars ever since. As Buchner notes, he flies “a bit under the radar”. That suits his nature, says Paul: he doesn’t cook “to somehow boost my own profile”, but because he enjoys working with good produce and the team is the focus. The star is important, “of course”, but not an end in itself. He makes a conscious effort not to worry about potential losses.

Paul speaks at length about the concept of Opus V within the Engelhorn Group. Being part of a fashion house offers opportunities, for example through joint events and a strong focus on the experience. The aim is to establish the venue as a destination – from the café to the two-star restaurant. Kitchen parties, winemaker and champagne dinners, or casino evenings are not mere add-ons, but an integral part of the strategy.

Paul also prioritises flexibility in the kitchen. Instead of a rigid set menu, Opus V offers three-, four- and six-course menus. This approach stems from conversations with guests: “We’re too old, we can’t eat as much anymore,” is something they’ve often heard. Particularly at lunchtime or on Sundays, the aim is to make Michelin-starred cuisine accessible, without compromising on quality, but with adjusted portion sizes and prices.

Paul describes his cuisine as “Urban Nature Cuisine”. Behind this lies a straightforward style, with an international influence, focusing on flavour rather than the thrill of experimentation. “We always make sure the guest enjoys it,” he says. One example is a vegetarian dish made from tapioca, carrot and gochujang, a Korean fermented chilli paste. Tapioca is excellent for conveying umami: “Then you really just add butter and that’s it.”

Vegetarian options are an integral part of the concept. There is always at least one vegetarian dish on the menu, as well as alternatives for set menus. The aim is to “please every single guest”, including those with allergies, even if this is challenging in day-to-day operations. Paul’s business acumen also becomes clear during the conversation. As part of a larger company, they can pool purchasing volumes, yet daily quality control remains the kitchen’s responsibility. If a product isn’t up to standard, plans are adjusted at short notice. Calculations are based on menu tiers: cheaper courses allow for more expensive ingredients elsewhere, without compromising on quality.

Another key priority is training. Trainees do not join Opus 5 in their first year of apprenticeship, but via other establishments within the group. This is intended to lay the foundations and assess motivation. Passion and an interest in the craft are crucial. The drop-out rate is low, and the atmosphere in the kitchen today is different from what it used to be. The days of the shouting head chef are over – feeling at ease is a prerequisite for performance.