Fukagawa: Fine Dining in Berlin-Kreuzberg

BERLIN. In a city like Berlin, where new restaurants open and gastronomic concepts are introduced every week in every corner of the city, you might think you've already seen and tried everything. Trends from other major cities sooner or later find their way to the German capital – and are put to the test here. In such a competitive and fast-paced market, presenting a new, well-thought-out and authentic concept seems almost impossible. But that's exactly what two restaurateurs from Berlin are trying to do: with their Japanese-French fusion fine dining restaurant Fukagawa in Berlin-Kreuzberg, Leonardo Donati and Felix Thoms are not only breaking new culinary ground, but also harmoniously and ambitiously combining their respective backgrounds.

Donati is no stranger to Berlin's restaurant scene: in January 2025, he and his partner Sabrina Schulz opened the upscale ramen restaurant Fukagawa Ramen in Kreuzberg. Shortly afterwards, due to the success of the concept, a second branch followed in Prenzlauer Berg. With the new restaurant, which opened in January 2026 in the former premises of the neighbourhood restaurant Tante Fichte, the two are now venturing into fine dining together with chef Felix Thoms. While Schulz is primarily responsible for the aesthetic design and look and feel of the three restaurants, Donati takes care of the culinary and creative aspects. As the face of the Fukagawa restaurants, he embodies the entire gastronomic vision, which stems from a deep personal connection to Japanese culture and cuisine as well as the Berlin restaurant scene.

The son of an Italian-German mother and a Japanese father, Donati grew up in Berlin with three cultural influences. His father, Miki Nozawa, had a significant impact on the Berlin gastronomic scene in the 1990s with one of the city's first Japanese restaurants: Fukagawa, named after the Tokyo district of the same name and Nozawa's home town. Many years later, Donati deliberately chose the name as a tribute to the culinary heritage of his late father. Following in his father's footsteps, preserving a family culinary heritage and at the same time creating something of his own – Donati has already succeeded in doing this with the Fukagawa ramen restaurants. As a self-taught chef, his flair for successful gastronomic concepts and his culinary signature are nourished by his personal history, great passion and a strong commitment to quality and craftsmanship.

Donati and Schulz recently travelled to Japan together and returned to Berlin with a wealth of new impressions and ideas. These experiences are now visibly reflected in Donati's latest project. With the new Fukagawa, he once again demonstrates the culinary potential of Japanese cuisine – and especially the ramen tradition – and consistently translates this into a contemporary fine dining concept.

To this end, he has brought an experienced partner on board: Felix Thoms, who also grew up in Berlin, completed his culinary training at the Hotel Hanseatik on Rügen. After working at renowned establishments such as the Alt Luxemburg in Berlin and the Villa Hammerschmiede in Pfinztal, he opened the Schöneberg neighbourhood restaurant Bob & Thoms in 2019 together with a business partner. But standing still was never an option for the 35-year-old chef. He longed for new challenges – and found them in Japanese cuisine and Leonardo Donati's restaurant concept. Over the past few months, Thoms has therefore devoted himself intensively to the flavours, ingredients and preparation techniques of Japanese cuisine and, together with Donati, has developed a menu for the new Fukagawa. This menu harmoniously combines two different culinary influences and personalities – linked by a shared passion for gastronomy, the courage to break new ground and an uncompromising commitment to quality. Thoms and Donati are supported in the kitchen by Markus Suntinger, who most recently worked at restaurants such as CODA and Bonvivant Cocktail Bistro.

Each course of the 8- or 9-course menu, available in omnivorous or vegetarian versions, draws on elements from the ramen tradition and combines them with high-quality products and French influences. Ramen – noodle soups that originated in the Chinese Empire – are based on three central components: oil, broth and seasoning. They are traditionally complemented by noodles and various toppings. Translating this basic culinary structure into a fine dining menu requires a great deal of craftsmanship on the part of Thoms and Donati. All components are freshly prepared at Fukagawa – from the homemade bread served as an appetiser before the actual menu to the broths that form the basis of many dishes. A total of four different broths are made in-house, which are used in varying forms in both menus: a chintan chicken broth, tori paitan, also made from chicken, tonkotsu, a traditional ramen broth made from pork bones, and a chintan vegetable broth.

Guests are invited to sample the broths right at the start of the evening: in the form of a cold ramen shot and a praline filled with broth. The meal continues with dishes such as scallops from Brittany with chervil root, black garlic oil and tare seasoning, served in a tonkotsu reduction. The central elements of a classic ramen soup – oil, broth and seasoning – are clearly recognisable here, yet transformed in a creative way. Three different cuts of bluefin tuna, increasing in fat content, are served with aubergine and myoga in a ponzu sauce, optionally topped with fresh wasabi, which is grated directly at the table on a Japanese shark skin grater (oroshigane). For the extra course, Thoms and Donati have created a risotto made from Koshihikari rice and Chintan broth, served with sea urchin from Brittany – unique in Berlin in terms of freshness and quality – and an umeboshi beurre blanc. For the main course, omnivorous guests enjoy the finest Wagyu beef from Kagoshima as rib-eye, grilled on a traditional Japanese konro grill with binchotan charcoal, accompanied by braised chicory, Japanese potatoes and a soy sauce jus.

The desserts also skilfully reflect the fusion of the two cuisines and culinary personalities: the crème brûlée is garnished with togarashi spices and the sweet finale is a cream of flying mango with sake kasu ice cream and sesame crumble. The vegetarian menu offers guests courses such as leek terrine with orange and nori leaves in a sake beurre blanc or gyoza with celery and green tea. Both menus are offered at a price of £162 per person. Guests can also choose from two accompanying drinks. The wine pairing comes from the pen and wine cellar of former Tante Fichte operator Michael Köhle. Alternatively, a sake pairing has been created in collaboration with Sake Kontor that harmoniously complements the flavours of both menus. The two menus are served on handmade ceramics by Frank Richter, tea expert, ceramist specialising in Japanese firing techniques and long-time companion of Donati and Schulz. These are complemented by fine tableware and crystal glasses from Hering Berlin as well as handmade, playful ceramics from Japan. The flowers on the tables are arranged according to the Japanese art of flower arranging, ikebana. White tablecloths, elegant lighting by Zafferano and modern wood panelling on the walls complete the interior, which is minimalist, warm and inviting in equal measure.

In this way, the ambience also reflects the restaurant's philosophy: a harmonious combination of Japan's nature-inspired, minimalist aesthetic with the atmospheric, classic elegance characteristic of French fine dining restaurants. The fusion concept and commitment to quality are thus not only visible and tangible on the plate, but also in the room itself.