When Edip Sigl received his third Michelin star for his restaurant "Es:senz" in Grassau, the euphoria was immense – and reflection on his own style was still in its infancy. In any case, on the day the Michelin award was announced, he found few words to explain his own development towards the third star in a short interview in an earlier podcast episode. In conversation with Restaurant-Ranglisten.de, the top chef looks back on the development of his cuisine since then and describes how the pandemic period became a phase of self-discovery: "I had a lot of time to focus on my signature style." The opening of Es:senz marked a conscious new beginning for him: "Everything I did before was great, but here I didn't want to do the same thing as before."

Reduction as a maturing process

A central motif in Sigl's work is reduction to the essentials. "We have fewer products on the plate, but they are much more precise," he explains. The quality of the products is paramount, and small mistakes are immediately visible. For Sigl, this reduction is not an easy path, but a challenge: "I find it more difficult to make less on the plate because you have to be much more precise." He sees uncompromising continuity and constant development as the key to success.

Working with regional producers has given Sigl a new appreciation for ingredients. "I've developed a different relationship with the products, simply by working with regional suppliers," he says. The pandemic has given him and his team the time to engage intensively with suppliers. "It's a certain relationship that you build up, where you appreciate the product much more." As an example, he cites Chiemsee whitefish, a freshwater fish he had never worked with before and which became a "sensational product" for him.

The sauce as the soul of the dish

A recurring theme in the conversation is the importance of sauce. For Sigl, it is "the soul of every dish". He emphasises: "Sauce is a matter for the chef." While his team takes on many tasks, the preparation of sauces remains his personal domain. "I make my sauces every day. A sauce changes – it's also a state of mind." In summer, the sauces are more tangy and fresh, while in winter they tend to be velvety and warming. He doesn't have recipes for sauces: "It's a feeling, and that's what cooking is for me."

According to Sigl, the perfect sauce must offer a balance of sweetness, saltiness, acidity and umami. "When it goes down and it's a complete delight, then the dish is right." Lightness is also important to him: "A sauce should not be overwhelming, but must have a certain lightness."

Es:senz offers two menus: the regional "Chiemgau pur" and the internationally inspired "Chiemgau Around the World". Despite the different products, the basis always remains regional. "The basis of the whole thing is still Chiemgau," emphasises Sigl. The menu is designed so that guests can swap courses and express individual wishes. "I let the guest decide," says Sigl, underlining his guest-oriented philosophy.

Team leadership: development and appreciation

As head chef and culinary director, Sigl attaches great importance to the development of his team. "Many of my employees have been with me for a very long time, and that makes me extremely happy." He encourages participation: "When we create new dishes, we talk about them, and I want to hear feedback." The opportunity to contribute their own ideas motivates the team and creates a sense of identification with the restaurant. "Of course, I'm the boss and I make the final decisions, but we work well together."

Despite its success, Sigl sees his restaurant as "not yet fully developed". Curiosity about new products, techniques and ideas – including those brought in by new employees – keeps the team moving forward. "We're still creating dishes, but not with a sledgehammer," he explains. Inspiration can come from anywhere: "Sometimes it's a colour, sometimes an old flavour that I rediscover."

When asked how he manages not to be dogged, Sigl replies: "A good balance between my private life and work is very important to me." He is able to switch off at home. Success is not an end in itself: "Ultimately, we want to make our guests happy and cook as if we were aiming for a fourth star."

Sigl sees developing his own signature style as a key goal. "Many say that we have succeeded in developing a style that is instantly recognisable." For him, this is a great compliment – and at the same time an incentive to continue the journey.