New bar manager at Bonvivant

BERLIN: It's an old wives' tale that a good cocktail needs alcohol to be full of flavour. Elias Heintz has proven this many times in recent years at Bonvivant. He is now giving way to a new bar manager, taking on more management tasks within the company, but will of course continue to keep an eye on the bar. However, Martin Wolf is not simply continuing Heintz's alcohol-free approach, he is changing the perspective: he is thinking about cocktail creations the other way round.

"My basis is always the development of an alcohol-free cocktail," says Martin Wolf, who previously worked as Head Bartender at Frederick's. This approach to new cocktails clearly sets the 34-year-old from Potsdam apart from other colleagues. "Fruit, herbs, vegetables, rice ... I first think about how I can bring in textures that give the cocktail structure," explains Wolf, "then it's a matter of fine-tuning, nuanced flavours and the balance of sweetness, acidity, bitterness and umami."

Wolf prefers to use juice or tea as a base - such as green tea for a slightly bitter flavour and black tea for tannins. This pioneering work in terms of alcohol-free flavours is rewarded with exceptional taste experiences. This is also how "Bitter & Blossom" was created. Rhubarb juice with gentian, liquorice, lavender, rosé verjus and bitters serves as the basis. The sweet and sour juice is given a bitter note by gentian and liquorice. A hint of lavender adds floral elegance. The refreshing drink is topped up with tonic. For the alcoholic version, gin, sloe gin, dry vermouth or purple shisole liqueur are added.

Perhaps Martin Wolf owes his openness to the fact that he is a career changer. He actually only worked at Vienna House by Wyndham Andel's Berlin to finance his history degree. There, he enjoyed working at the bar in Loft 14 so much that he stayed. Later, while working with Arnd Henning Heißen at Frederick's, he learnt to appreciate the close connection between kitchen and bar. At Bonvivant , he can deepen this symbiosis. He is in constant dialogue with head chef Nikodemus Berger in order to be able to serve perfect pairings. Whether Wolf continues the juniper flavours from the dish with (non-alcoholic) gin or takes inspiration from ingredients: Food and drink are thought together. Kitchen techniques are also increasingly used at the bar and here, too, nothing is wasted. For example, fruit pomace is used as vinegar and herbs are fully processed.

The vegan premise is new for Martin Wolf. "The world of vegan spirits is exciting," he says, "just like the kitchen team, I don't see the renunciation of animal products, but rather the endless new possibilities for preparing guests a wonderful evening." Wolf continues the "no wine" menu. "There's a lot going on with non-alcoholic wines, but guests will find the real treasures at Bonvivant and it will stay that way."