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Farewell

Herbert Beltle hands over Rôtisserie Weingrün


Berlin

After 16 years, Renate Dengg and Max Setrak take over from Jolesch.

Show larger version for: Max Setrak und Renate Dengg | Foto: Nils Hasenau
Max Setrak und Renate Dengg | Foto: Nils Hasenau

BERLIN An era is coming to an end on Gertraudenstraße in Berlin-Mitte: restaurateur Herbert Beltle, who has shaped Rotisserie Weingrün for more than a decade and a half, is retiring. His successor is an experienced duo: Renate Dengg and Max Setrak, known from the Kreuzberg cult restaurant Jolesch. The two thoroughbred restaurateurs want to retain the tried-and-tested concept of the upscale rotisserie - after all, Weingrün is unique in this form in Berlin. At the same time, Dengg and Setrak bring fresh impetus, a wealth of experience and, above all, passion - they want to breathe new life into the traditional restaurant without losing its character.

Kitchen philosophy

As in the Jolesch, chef Tobias Janzen is responsible for the gastronomic concept. Together with Dengg and Setrak, he has completely revised and modernised the menu. You won't find a Wiener schnitzel at Weingrün - instead, in keeping with the rotisserie concept, there are of course numerous specialities from the Flammenwand grill. In addition to chicken, which Janzen sources from Prignitzer Landhof, BBQ spare ribs from Havelland apple pigs and entrecÙte from Simmental beef are also prepared over an open fire. An innovation that Dengg and Setrak attach particular importance to: Vegetarians and vegans now also get their money's worth at Weingrün. The roast celeriac, for example, is marinated whole, roasted until golden brown and served with roasted hazelnuts. The side dishes range from cheese spaetzle and grilled potatoes to wild broccoli. In addition to the rotisserie specialities, the new menu also includes fine creations such as salmon ceviche or ox tartare. If you still have room afterwards, round off your dinner with a crème brûlée or a crêpe in orange-caramel sauce.

The drinks menu has also been redesigned with the change of ownership. In addition to a large wine selection with around 100 items from Germany, France and Austria, the menu now also includes high-quality cocktail and long drink classics such as Basil Smash and Kiev Mule, Austrian and French brandies, selected whiskies and port wines as well as homemade non-alcoholic drinks.

Even if Austrian cuisine is not the focus at Weingrün, the principle is the same as at its Kreuzberg sister restaurant Jolesch: hospitality and cosiness are the unifying constants, as are uncompromising quality standards - both in terms of products and service. Just like at Jolesch, everyone should feel at home at Weingrün: whether families, business travellers, tourists or groups of friends.

Interior

As soon as you enter the historic, light-flooded corner building, you notice the open, inviting atmosphere in the Weingrün. Two large windows open up the view to the outside and allow plenty of daylight into the spacious dining room. A total of almost 100 guests can be seated at light-coloured wooden tables. An open brick ceiling and light green, textured walls create an urban, almost industrial atmosphere. At the same time, warm light, natural materials and a harmonious table setting provide the right amount of cosiness - a successful combination of modern elegance and cosy hospitality. A real eye-catcher is the graphically designed shelf behind the bar, which acts as a stylistic anchor in the room. Other characteristic accents include the green illuminated Weingrün logo, a lush bouquet of flowers on the serving trolley and three stuffed cockerels on the wall to the right of the entrance. The interior design of the rotisserie thus builds a convincing bridge between tradition and zeitgeist

Location

The restaurant's location could hardly be more symbolic: Right here, on the banks of the Spree, the historic centre of Berlin was established around 1237. Where once merchants, markets and fishermen characterised the scene, today you can enjoy aperitifs from the newly curated cocktail menu on the same cobblestones with a view of the hustle and bustle on the Spree. Gertraudenstraße is named after the Gertraudenhospital, which was located not far from the restaurant in the Middle Ages, and its namesake, St Gertraude: a wise, compassionate woman who devotedly cared for pilgrims, sick and needy people in the 7th century. The Spittelmarkt (derived from the medieval term for (high) hospital) was already the social centre of the city back then - and remains a lively meeting place to this day. Berliners and tourists alike bustle about here.

 

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