Restaurant review
Tohru in der Schreiberei, Munich
"I was really impressed by this menu. Compared to my previous visit five years ago, Tohru Nakamura has clearly raised his profile and seems to have found his style. The most important sign of this for me is the consistently high quality of the dishes. They are clearly focussed and nuanced. The sauces are powerful and intense, not necessarily only through reduction, but also through seasoning. But they never overpower the main product. The balance of all the courses is therefore excellent. This comes into its own with the carabinero, unagi and meat courses. You have to look for and want to find a fly in the ointment. I could see that the two dishes with a more delicate and product-focussed approach, the salmon trout and the peas, lacked the final touch of absolute purism. But these are such minimal fluctuations that, based on the comparison of Munich's two-star restaurants, with the exception of the Atelier, over the past 18 months, I've decided that if one of them gets the third star, it will be Tohru in the Schreiberei." (Published in April 2025)
