Swan&Son realigns itself

BERLIN: The Swan&Son went into the next round in April: Lunch is back, the price-performance ratio has been deliberately rethought and the overall appearance is a touch more relaxed. The charming bistro in Charlottenburg is now showing a noticeably different side - relaxed, uncomplicated, contemporary. The cuisine remains French-inspired, but has been given more lightness and a fresh twist with Asian components. The result: less haute cuisine, more spontaneous enjoyment.

The reason for the reorientation is a conscious decision to get closer to the guest. "Many things were good before, but perhaps still too cerebral," says head chef Björn Swanson, who had the courage to question the familiar after more than two decades of award-winning gastronomy. "We have learnt, questioned ourselves - and realised that we need to change with the times." His vision: a place where food is suitable for everyday use and special at the same time. A place that could also be a regular go-to place for young people: "Because people around 25 don't necessarily want liver terrine on their plate."

Beurre Blanc kisses soya sauce

In concrete terms, this means a cuisine that doesn't lose its esprit, but instead becomes much more accessible. Without threshold fear, without constraint, but with uncompromising quality. "At Swan & Son, guests can drop by spontaneously for a glass of wine at the bar, choose just a starter or a dessert - without any dress code or occasion pressure," says Swanson. The current dinner menu is correspondingly diverse: alongside classics such as "steak frites with Béarnaise sauce", the focus is on dishes with an Asian twist. Refreshing wild salmon tartare with cucumber, spicy fried salmon with chilli mayo and pointed cabbage or Japanese pizza with tofu and ginger tickle the palate with delightful flavours. Even French "plat signature" dishes such as beurre blanc are given an update and married with soya sauce aged for 20 years.

From now on, Swan & Son will once again be offering the opportunity to take a culinary break from everyday life in a relaxed atmosphere at lunchtime: Lunch is back! From Monday to Friday, the bistro serves a changing 2-course menu between 12 noon and 3 pm in addition to the à la carte selection - including water and espresso for €29. Sometimes it's BBQ short ribs with miso carrots, sometimes salad niçoise with grilled yellowfin tuna, sometimes bao bun with marinated duck leg. "We cook what we love ourselves," says Swanson, and sometimes he even starts a survey among his team.