Plénitude, Paris

"The level of perfectionism of the kitchen and service at Plénitude is impressive. The dishes have a complex composition, but don't seem over-constructed at all. Above all, the proportions are spot on. The concept that the sauces shape the dishes is celebrated here - on the plate and it is emphasised time and again by the service with great poetry. Our head waiter finds a new verb for what the sauce does to the flavour in every announcement. Sometimes it emphasises, then it highlights, then it highlights, then it accompanies the main product. Such poetic descriptions of dishes draw the guest's attention and allow me to indulge. But it is also interesting to note that the sauces alone are not so tasty to spoon away. The reason for this is their distinctive acidity, which of course varies from sauce to sauce and from course to course, but is always a touch stronger than would be expected in traditional cuisine. Despite the creaminess of the sauces, this gives the dishes an overall light, fresh and modern character. Everything is simply perfectly balanced.
Although everything seems to be perfectly timed here, there is one small point of criticism at the end: at least the lobster and the main course should have been served on warmer plates so that the serving temperature, which was right, could have been maintained for longer. It takes two minutes - according to my photo time stamps - until everything is in place with six people and sauces have been poured and then sometimes two different dishes are announced. Two minutes of warmth that is then noticeably missing from the last few bites. That's a shame on the one hand, but reassuring on the other, because despite all the perfection, this small point of criticism gives Plénitude a touch more humanity." (Published in January 2025)

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