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Restaurant review

De Leuf, Ubachsberg

Netherlands, Forum

"A style that is clearly sympathetic to Japan, but also makes creative use of flavours from the rest of the world."

"Japanese elements in fine dining have been en vogue for a long time. Sometimes they work better, sometimes rather strained. In my opinion, Robin van de Bunt takes a rather undogmatic approach. Sometimes the accents are more noticeable, other times he deliberately takes them back. The result is a style that is clearly sympathetic to Japan, but also makes creative use of flavours from the rest of the world. The craftsmanship is flawless anyway, which certainly justifies the high ratings. The fact that the waiting times between courses were a little longer, especially at the beginning of the menu, may be due to the fact that the restaurant was fully booked. But they were still acceptable. The pace picked up over the course of lunch and was then perfectly acceptable. There is nothing to criticise about the service anyway. There was always someone at our table, and the wine pairing by sommelier Franc Michielsen offered an interesting and appropriate selection. Even more impressive, however, was the non-alcoholic accompaniment, which this time fell to me as the driver. Michelle van de Bunt created fascinating cocktails that convincingly captured the flavours of the courses. This is one of the most unique non-alcoholic accompaniments in a long time. And above all, the very familiar atmosphere with a very cool soundtrack, which made it clear that this restaurant, as old as it may be, is very contemporary." (Published in November 2024)

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