Geranium, Copenhagen

"Even though fish and seafood are still on the menu, this time vegetables and herbs take centre stage at Geranium, making it almost feel like a vegetarian menu. Protein is reduced to a minimum and is used more in the sauces than as a pure product on the plate. It is impressive how precisely the dishes are prepared and the subtleties can be tasted. Even if one or two of the courses would benefit from being one or two bites larger so that the details can be better appreciated, it still manages to create a lot of stimuli. But that also makes everything look very "sensible". I do miss one or two palate-pleasing courses, such as the Marbled Hake. Of course, this extremely delicate menu would be unbalanced by this house classic - the balance is outstanding. The menu structure is as perfect as the individual dishes. The flavours slowly increase in intensity and the texture of the dishes gradually becomes firmer and firmer, culminating in an extremely fine, purely vegetarian course that tastes almost like nothing on the one hand, but has an outstanding amount of flavour on the other. The overall Geranium package continues to be absolutely harmonious. The dishes are flawless and unique and cannot be surpassed in terms of precision. In my opinion, however, it shouldn't get any more "sensible", otherwise I think we've passed the point where it becomes too smooth." (Published in October 2024)

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