Jante, Hannover

"Tony Hohlfeld has his own style of cooking at Jante. Most of the dishes are more head than stomach dishes - this is mainly due to the unusual product combinations, which are harmoniously proportioned throughout. However, as the menu also includes more palatable dishes that have a stronger emotional impact, the menu as a whole is not too top-heavy or strenuous, but rather varied. The menu also varies nicely between compactly arranged courses, which are easy to grasp and then enjoy, and dishes in which you combine the different components and thus discover different levels. The individual dishes are just details, but overall I notice that the presentation and textures always raise questions for me. This applies first and foremost to the very compact creams in the amuses and the "leather" elements in several dishes, as well as the pickled truffle slices on the upgrade course. Overall, I consider the Jante to be in the middle of the two-star range. I found the wine pairing - with one exception - very convincing. For the most part, the wines were able to blend in very well with the dishes, emphasising elements and steering the perception in the obviously desired direction. That's how you want a wine accompaniment." (Published in September 2024)

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