Restaurant review
SKYKITCHEN, Berlin
"Sascha Kurgan's cooking tends to be more classical in style, with links to the ideas of New German Cuisine rather than French classicism. While many young chefs often (want to) be very loud and powerful on their plates, he succeeds remarkably well in controlling the intensities and creating proportions on the individual plates and across the menu.
The style may initially make the menu appear somewhat unspectacular. You will certainly experience tried and tested flavours throughout. But this will appeal to many guests who simply want to enjoy their meal. As a whole range of details reveal beautiful ideas and good flavour effects, the menu is so interesting that I say: I'd be happy to do it again any time. Above all because I assume that Sascha Kurgan is only just developing his own culinary signature and is obviously doing so with healthy motivation and not under excessive pressure. This was also the impression I got the following day in an interview that we recorded for our podcast and will be publishing soon. That's why it's definitely worthwhile for me to visit Skykitchen again the next time I'm in Berlin, or the time after that, to experience the kitchen at sunset.
All in all, I would say that the overall package of design, service, wine profile and cuisine works very well for me. If you think the cuisine is a little too good, you will certainly be won over by the somewhat more unusual wine selection or vice versa. In any case, I really liked the pleasantly relaxed, professional hospitality of the team and the atmosphere of the room." (Published in December 2024)
