Lakeside, Hamburg

"Even if - as the individual descriptions of the dishes show - I have a few small points of criticism in detail, this is a very convincing menu. Julian Stowasser is getting better and better at working with familiar flavours and increasingly putting his own stamp on them without losing the accessibility that characterises classic cuisine. It may not be the most spectacular cuisine, but the details reveal more and more of his own signature style. In this menu, it is the noticeable play of acidity that is very successful - truly a two-star achievement. The excellently structured wine list and, as always, the warm and communicative service make the evening a great pleasure." (Published in September 2024)

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