Aqua, Wolfsburg

"Despite this detailed criticism at a high level, it must be said in conclusion that Sven Elverfeld offers a very high-calibre kitchen performance here that truly has nothing to be ashamed of with its three stars (even if we may not have seen all the dishes at this high level that evening). The cuisine may no longer necessarily be categorised as avant-garde - as was often the case in its early years - but for the most part it scores points (with a few exceptions - see above) with the kind of unagitated elegance and subtlety that only old masters like Sven Elverfeld can bring to the table, who have found their style, no longer have to prove anything to themselves and no longer have to attract attention with crazy creatitis. Here, a chef is at peace with himself and, together with the matter-of-fact yet cosy ambience with a view of the surreally illuminated green hills of the Autostadt at night and the very attentive service provided by hostess Stefanie Weidner, a microcosm has been created here which, and this is not meant to sound presumptuous or pretentious, can be described as a "microcosm". "Three-star experience for every day or (perhaps more aptly, as it would otherwise be a little expensive) for every occasion", as the cuisine is very accessible at this level and the restaurant as a whole (once you have passed through the stately hotel ...) hardly raises any threshold fears." (Published in September 2024)

More >>