Lakeside, Hamburg

"Julian Stowasser's style at Lakeside won't put anyone off. Experienced gourmets will get their money's worth, but it's also one of those Michelin-starred restaurants that you can take newcomers to without any problems. Even if that would be a pricey start in this world. This is mainly due to the fact that harmony in the interplay of ingredients seems to be the top priority here. There is no attempt to be avant-garde or provocative. They simply allow themselves to be playful from time to time, but the tempo of the evening is unusual. As if to slow the guests down, they take a long time between courses. Even if I am clearly disturbed by too fast a pace on an evening full of indulgence, it goes a little too far in the other direction here, so that the evening lasts 4.5 hours without a break or anything like that. After all, restaurant manager Michel Buder uses the time to chat extensively with the guests. And the young representative of sommelier Stefanie Hehn, who is absent this evening, is also bubbling over with enthusiasm, inviting guests to talk shop about the wines on offer." (Published in August 2024)

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