Comeback of the Neukölln canteen

BERLIN: Eins44 in Neukölln now wants to make guests happy with simple things too: Head chef Julius Nowak and owner Jonathan Kartenberg love upscale modern cuisine just as much as good old-fashioned home cooking. The two don't see an either-or situation. And that's why they are now bringing back the canteen concept that played a major role when the eins44 restaurant was founded. "We're having fun with change," explains Jonathan Kartenberg, "and trying out new ideas."

So now there is confit cod with garden beans, guanciale and savoury stock (€37) next to fish & chips (€24) and summer mushroom ravioli with parsley nage and Belper Knolle (€33) next to pearl barley risotto with mushrooms (€18). "The canteen food is prepared by the same outstanding kitchen crew as the fine dining dishes," says Julius Nowak, "and we don't compromise on the quality of the ingredients either. It's all about enjoyment." Other classics from Grandma's kitchen that have made it onto the additional menu: Chicken fricassee with peas and rice (€22), Berlin-style veal liver (from €17), poached egg with herbs and mayonnaise (€13) and much more.

Both menus change seasonally, the canteen menu even more frequently. Both menus also uphold the principles of regionality and sustainability. The approach of offering two styles of cuisine is unconventional, but definitely a win-win for guests. "Canteen food à la eins44 is just the beginning, we're on our way," emphasises owner Jonathan Kartenberg. The statement can be understood as a promise of even more creative plans that the team is developing here in the third backyard of the Otto-Reichel-Höfe.

Restaurant eins44 is open Tuesday to Saturday from 6.30 pm to 11 pm. Reservations can be made at info@remove-this.eins44.com,+49 (0) 30 62 98 12 12 or opentable.