Alleno - Pavillon Ledoyen, Paris

"Yannick Alleno's kitchen has become much more purist. It is technically highly precise. It often requires perfect timing in the service in order to bring the dishes to the table in the best possible way, which is achieved flawlessly on this evening. For me, the sturgeon and sweetbreads also set new standards in terms of flavour. All the dishes are delicate to subtle and very precise. I was very satisfied with the menu and in a different place I might even have been delighted, but a little warmth of heart is missing. There's little in the way of flavourful generosity, everything seemed rather sensible and matter-of-fact, almost a little frugal." (Published in July 2024)

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