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One would never think of the sea urchin as being the cause of ecological damage to the ocean bed. However these voracious devourers of kelp and similar salt water vegetable delicacies sometimes do just that.
And in its turn the animal is one of Japan’s big imports from the US of A where in southern California former surfers lift them to higher things. The quality of the animals, of which the roe is the preferred part, is most consistent on the west coast of California and here demand, harvest and prices rise in December. The Maoris also fish for them and eat them, though they would prefer to export to Japan. But the quality is seldom high enough to meet Japanese standards. This applies to many other areas where there are plentiful sea urchins but at a lower price than that which can be realised in Japan where one particular form, the uni, can sell for as much as $450/kg.
There it is served raw as sashimi or in sushi, with soy sauce and wasabi. Around the Med the roe is often eaten raw with a squeeze of lemon juice or served on very hot linguine which slightly cooks the roe. They are used in omelettes, fish soups, sauces, tartlets. Cooked and uncooked they prove an unusual experience with a texture a bit like thick custard and a fresh marine flavour.
So the next time you step on a sea urchin just think of the way you could have cooked it rather than just being upset at the pain.
Written by J.K. Clouston, gourmet-portal.com, 2009
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